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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.